“We'll rant and we'll roar like true Newfoundlanders” fr. The Ryans and the Pittmans, a folk song attributed to Henry William LeMessurier. -JRS
I. Battle Lines
Burger Battle is on again – but not for The Nook and Cannery, apparently. According to a recent social media post, they’re not “downtown enough”. For context, The Nook and Cannery sits on Harvey Road, a stone’s throw from Gower Street – decidedly downtown – or a short stroll from approved Burger Battle combatant, No. 4 Restaurant and Bar, on Cathedral.
Now, I’d imagine there was a reason to ban The Nook and Cannery from the Battle, but to me, honestly, the whole thing feels very St. John’s. For those of you not from this place, here’s a metaphorical recipe, to make my point. Take one small city, yet to outgrow its high-school hierarchy mentality. Toss in a literal half-hour time difference, but a figurative 15 to 20-year delay, from the mainland. Blend in a weather best described, in a word, as “miserable”, and garnish with a good measure of geographic isolation. I could suggest some sides – the booms and busts of an extractive economy; a bloated, risk-averse bureaucracy; a population nearly broken by austerity – but I think you get the point.
To me, that about sums up the politics and culture of this place we call “Town”, whether we’re talking about something as banal as drawing the lines of a Burger Battle – or as serious as evicting a disabled elderly woman. Decisions often feel, in their logic and intention, opaque, or mean-spirited, or senseless. You know when you read the news and you shake your head and sigh in resignation? You do that a lot, living here.
In any case, The Nook and Cannery, class acts all around, responded to their Burger Battle banishment with a new menu item: the “Not Downtown Enough Burger”. Hats off to them. If you’re local, you can’t vote for that burger online, but you can vote with your dollar (wink, wink).
II. A Perfect Meal, Imperfectly
Truth is, I didn’t want to write the above; I wanted to tell you about the hot toddies. You see, we had our first meal at The Nook and Cannery last month, and it ended up being one of those rare, random experiences that remind you of why you love restaurants.
It was a Saturday night, near the end of a stretch of unseasonable cold. We wandered in on a whim, without a reservation; they, the good and kindly people of The Nook and Cannery, seated us at the bar until a table became available.
First impressions: uncomfortably cold. Between the inside and the outside stood only the door and a light curtain. Like many of the other diners, we kept on our winter coats and, while reading the menu, contemplated leaving. Really, who wants to pay to be cold on a date night?
Then a line on the menu pulled our attention: “Seasonal Hot toddy!” We quickly placed our order.
The toddies arrived soon after, two mugs of steaming amber liquid. The recipe, as per our delightful server: two ounces rye whiskey; one ounce lemon juice; a Tetley tea bag; boiling hot water; and a big spoonful of local honey. You’ll have to trust me when I say they were pitch-perfect: The kick of the grain whiskey and the tannic bitterness of the tea, balanced out by the complex honey, with that steady top note from the fresh citrus. The hot drinks set the mood for what became a wonderful meal, winter coats and all. We were soon laughing and sharing our food, enjoying the incredible soundtrack (you had me at hip-hop), very much “vibing”.
The meal was delicious and if I point out any problems, I’m nitpicking (e.g. the burger patty: a little over; the bun: a tad dry). But that’s not really my intention here and you can read reviews elsewhere. I could tell you to expect creative food with bold flavors, as independent and unpretentious as the space you’re sitting in. I could also tell you that The Nook and Cannery now ranks among our rotation of restaurants. Or, I could put it this way: You can pay a lot more for “upscale casual” in this city if you like1 – or you can come here, relax, and have a blast twice over.
Like the Burger Battle vote, the choice is yours.
From a quick scan of the city’s more list-worthy “fine dining” establishments: tater tots ($18), mashed potatoes with cheese ($18), chicken wings ($20), beer can chicken ($85), cod tongues ($25), breakfast sandwich ($22).